Choosing the Right Turf

Turfgrasses vary widely in how they adapt and perform within different environments. They all have their strengths and weaknesses. At present, there is no perfect turfgrass that suits all situations. Therefore, it is important to choose the best turfgrass for your environment and then managing it it accordingly to achieve a practical, sustainable and aesthetic turf surface. 

Today, homeowners and turf professionals alike, often choose their grass based on price, social media recommendations and marketing. However there are more important factors to be considered. These commonly include, your environment (e.g. location, shade, high wear), intended use, available resources and level of maintenance you wish to provide, water availability and quality, and soil type.

 

Turf Price

The choice of turf is often decided upon by price. However, a survey conducted by Brand Story in 2010 identified that 50% of people did not actually know the actual cost per square metre of turf. A further survey conducted by Turf Australia in 2014 identified that consumers were willing to pay between $10 and $20 per square metre for the supply of quality turf.

Provided below is a price comparison, obtained by Turf Finder in 2018, between three prominent turfgrass species, soft leaf buffalo, green couch and zoysia, being sold across Australia. Please note that the prices will always vary depending on supply and demand; and demand has been high since COVID-19. Also, don't forget to ask your turf supplier if a delivery fee will be incurred if you are unable to organise farm pick-up. Delivery may be FREE, or typically a charge up to $130 may be incurred depending on the quantity of turf ordered and your delivery location.

Turf price.

 

Turf Choice

FAQ's are provided below for homeowners and sports turf clubs/ground managers to help you choose the right turfgrass for your environment:

Because of differences in climatic and soil conditions, certain species of grasses will grow better in some locations than in others. While this may at first be confusing, it also means that there is usually a number of well-adapted grasses from which to choose a grass (or grasses) for your lawn; and these will almost certainly be stocked by a professional turf producer in your area.

Except for high altitude areas, generally speaking only 'warm-season' grasses are suitable for year-round growth in lawns within subtropical and tropical environments. Be aware that the 'cool season' grasses (ryegrass, fine or tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass etc.) sometimes promoted in “shady lawn” seed mixes are temperate or cool-season grasses. They can provide a quick short-term grass cover during the cooler months, but will die out once the heat of summer arrives without regular maintenance. Sometimes the humidity and heat is just too much and no matter how much attention to you provide the grass it is destined to fail.

Among the warm-season turfgrasses, green couch suits a wide range of climatic conditions, and some varieties can even be used in temperate regions where the combination of cold temperatures and winter rains prevail. Green couch, however, tends to struggle in the wet tropics of far north Queensland, mainly due to heavy cloud cover during the monsoonal months. The more tropical species like broadleaf carpet grass and centipede grass grow and maintain their green colour better in central and north Queensland where the winters are warmer than in south-east Queensland. Kikuyu grass, on the other hand, does not tolerate high summer temperatures and is best suited to higher altitude sites and the coastal subtropics.

For temperate regions a range of green couch, hybrid green couch and hybrid bermuda varieties are still an option. Since the millennium drought councils, sporting groups and homeowners alike have moved away from cool-season grasses to couch and kikuyu varieties because of the water savings and reduced maintenance. However, most warm-season turfgrasses in cool-season environments will go dormant (stop growing) and turn brown in colour during the cooler months. At this time, options for oversowing e.g. ryegrass or even turf colourant can be applied to provide aesthetics, If this is just too hard, maybe a cool-season species of turf straight out is the option for you. Ranges include ryegrass, fescue (tall and fine), Kentucky bluegrass and bentgrass (browntop and creeping).

Figure 1. Australian Climatic Zones (image soruce Australian Government, Bureau of Meteorology)

Below is a list of turfgrass species (scientific names and common names in brackets) that are best suited to different Australian climatic regions shown above (Figure 1). Click on the hyperlinks provided to take you to a supplementary page which contains species information and a list of each commmercially available turfgrass that is sold for that species across Australia. You will then be able to view, review and even compare (using our compare feature) turf variety information, then find your neariest turf supplier who sells the turf variety you are looking for.

Temperate:

 

Subtropical and Temperate:

  • Lolium perenne (Ryegrass (winter in subtropics))
  • Lolium perenne and Poa pratensis (Ryegrass and Kentucky Bluegrass (prefers temperate))

 

Subtropical and Tropical:

 

Tropical, Subtropical and Temperate:

Three (3) grade of turfgrass have been identifed by Turfgrass Queensland. They include Premium Turf, Commercial Turf and Non-Conforming Turf. Residential turf would normally fall within the Premium Turf category, especially if the consumer is paying prices within the ranges shown above or higher. Minimum Premium Turf guidelines are as follows:

 

  • Turfgrass shall contain only the species and variety of turfgrass shown on the invoice/delivery docket at the time of shipping to the customer.
  • The Premium Level Turfgrass supplied will have a minimum of 98% total turf cover with the species selected and no weeds or undesirable grasses visible at time of supply.
  • It may have no visible signs of disease or insect stress at time of delivery.
  • Neatly mowed to a height that is intended for the purpose and turf variety – uniformity in mowing.
  • Mature enough so that the turfgrass can be picked up and handled without damage.
  • Be of consistent colour and hue that indicates healthy turfgrass for the species and relevant to the season.
  • Moisture level that is neither too wet nor dry that will affect survivability once laid.
  • Soil depth not exceeding 15 mm with a minimum depth of soil to provide coverage to 70% of the cut turf grass root area. Individual pieces not to vary more than + or - 6 mm.
  • Measurement for thickness shall exclude top growth and thatch. Thatch layer not exceeding 25 mm.
  • Individual pieces of turfgrass shall be cut to the suppliers’ standard width. Maximum allowable deviation from suppliers’ standard widths shall be plus or minus 15 mm.

While most turfgrasses will grow satisfactorily across a range of maintenance levels, there is an optimum level of management needed to maintain an acceptable to good turf quality for each grass. Maintenance levels are closely related to cost and time, with high maintenance turf costing the most and taking the most time to maintain. Major sports stadiums and high end golf courses are not "good" models to follow as a homeowner unless you are prepared to spend a lot of money on fertiliser and a lot of time mowing, perhaps several times a week. Realistically assess your ability to maintain your lawn, whether you intend to do the work or to pay someone else to do it. For example, unless mown routinely, most green couch, hybrid green couch and hybrid bermuda varietes will scalp, leaving patches of bare leafless stems that are unsightly and can be slow to recover (although they also perform very well when sclaped to remove unwated thatch (dead organic material) in spring and summer). The same scalping damage goes with Zoysia and seashore paspalum grasses, however the recvoery time for these grasses are much slower and aggressive scalping in not recommended. Most buffalo species also require regular mowing otherwise they become too tall. Blue couch, by comparison, is less affected by an irregular mowing schedule.

A number of soil characteristics need to be considered. Natural soil types vary from sands through to heavy clays and therefore drainage varies from good to poor. Water also has difficulty penetrating soil compacted by vehicles and pedestrians. Broadleaf carpet grass, for example, grows best in wet soils, and will often take over such spots in the yard, particularly where shade is also present.

The acidity or alkalinity of the soil (as measured by pH) has a major effect on the different turfgrasses. Some (like seashore paspalum and kikuyu) are able to grow across a wide range of pH from acid through to alkaline (i.e. from pH 5.5 or less through to pH 9.0 or more). Green couch prefers soils ranging from slightly acid (pH 6.5 to 7.0) to alkaline, yet some varieties can tolerate a pH level between 5.5 and 8.5 (McCarty and Miller, 2002). The extreme range is very similar for some buffalograss varieties that can tolerate a wider range, from pH 4.5 to 8.5 (Busey, 2003). Many Australian soils are more acid than this, hence the recommendation to apply lime to adjust soil pH so that it is close to neutral (pH 7.0). However, other grasses like blue couch, carpet grass (narrow and broadleaf) and centipede grass prefer acid soils down to pH 5.0 or less, so that liming of the soil in these cases is not beneficial.

Shade affects about 25% of locations where turfgrass is planted in recreational or lawn areas. Around the home, it is very likely that some parts of the lawn will be shaded by trees or buildings, and this could restrict the selection of grasses suitable for those shaded spots in the yard.

Turfgrasses vary greatly in their tolerance of shade, and the appearance of your lawn will indicate whether or not it is affected by shade. All grasses, near the limits of their shade tolerance, react similarly. A shaded lawn produces fewer shoots giving it a more open appearance; the remaining shoots become etiolated (elongated) with leaves angled upwards, which further reduces light interception; and turf recovery within these areas is nearly non-existent.

The sun-loving species including green couch, blue couch, kikuyu, and centipede grass - start to show the damaging effects of shade at about 30% shade (or 70% of full sunlight), though a few more tolerant cultivars will grow satisfactorily at about 50% shade. Buffalograsses and the zoysias will grow in heavy dappled tree shade (c. 60-80% shade); whereas sweet smothergrass (Durban grass), broadleaf carpet grass and the Panicum laxum variety 'ShadeGro' are three of the most shade tolerant species, capable of growing successfully under trees where shade exceeds 80%. However, the ShadeGro grass variety is established by seed and supply is vary rare.

  • Increase the mowing height.
  • Reduce fertiliser applications.
  • Irrigate shady areas less.
  • Reduce traffic and wear if possible.
  • Improve drainage (if it is a problem).
  • Tree management to allow greater sunlight to the turf surface.
  • Disease control may be required.
  • Consider changing your turf to a more shade tolerant turfgrass. 

Most domestic lawns do not receive frequent heavy traffic to cause excessive wear and turf loss. Exceptions include where children's play is concentrated and dogs run a regular track around the house. In those areas, grasses with good wear tolerance such as green couch, hybrid bermudagrass or zoysia should be used to provide the greatest opportunity for survival.

Shade, however, compounds wear problems. Thi is because a shaded grass is already under stress. Although sweet smothergrass, for example, grows well in shaded areas and it is less tolerant of wear in shade than when growing in full sun.

Different grasses require different mowing practices. All will grow faster and require more frequent mowing during summer, especially if fertilised and watered. Most green couches require more regular mowing than blue couch to keep them short and leafy. At the other extreme, centipede grass or sweet smother grass requires less frequent mowing to maintain a lawn in good condition.

If you choose a short-growing grass that requires mowing at about 10 mm to 15 mm, you also need a mower that can be adjusted down to this height. Similarly, mulch mowing is less effective where the grass has a high shoot density, because the recycled clippings are not as easily or evenly distributed and tend to remain as unsightly lumps of cut material on the lawn surface.

Refer to our mowing page to find further information and handy maintenance tips.

Stoloniferous warm-season grasses (blue couch, buffalograss, sweet smothergrass and carpet grass) and some cool-season grasses will run into a garden bed unless there is an edging strip to act as a physical barrier, but their runners are easily pulled out and removed. Physical barriers around a garden bed, however, may not be sufficient to stop invasion by the strong underground network of rhizomes on grasses like green couch, hybrid green couch (hybrid bermudagrass),  kikuyu and zoysia grass.

Texture, density and colour are characteristics that contribute to the visual appearance of the turfgrass. The choice here is a matter of personal preference, but there will also be times when other factors (soil, shade, wear, etc.) mean that compromise here will be necessary.

Texture is a relative measure of leaf blade width and may be coarse, medium, or fine. Hybrid green couch or hybrid bermudagrass are fine textured grasses. Blue couch and green couch are medium (sometimes fine) textured grasses. Zoysia grasses can be either fine- or medium- to coarse-textured grasses depending on the Zoysia species. Kikuyu, narrowleaf carpet grass and centipede grass are medium-textured grasses. Buffalograss, broadleaf carpet grass and sweet smothergrass are coarse textured. The texture of most lawn grasses also becomes finer with closer and more frequent mowing. Because they have narrower leaves, finer textured grasses are generally more attractive if well maintained. As a general rule, however, fine textured grasses also require a higher level of maintenance. So under a low maintenance regime, coarser textured grasses will be more attractive.

Density relates to the number of shoots per area of the ground. Species with a high density and finer leaf texture generally produce better quality lawns. They are also less likely to be invaded by weeds than for grasses with a more open sward. Grasses with a lower shoot density and coarser leaf texture generally require a higher mowing height to produce a good quality lawn.

Colour is determined by the overall appearance of the leaves that make up the surface of the lawn. Many people prefer a dark green colour, but many such grasses also appear more susceptible to lawn grub attack during summer. Colour preferences are not just a personal issue; they also vary between regions, in part due to previous exposure to different grasses. For example, Queenslanders are more likely to accept a blue-green colour (typical of blue couch, which grows widely in the state) than Victorians, who are more definite in their preference for a dark green lawn.

Content included on this page has been modified; original content was published in Lawns and Lawn Care, a homeowner's guide (no date) and on the web by the former Dept of Primary Industries and Fisheries. Permission for use has been granted by the now Dept of Agriculture and Fisheries.

Busey, P. (2003). St. Augustinegrass, Stenotaphrum secundatum (Walt.) Kuntze. In M.D. Casler and R.R. Duncan (ed.). Turfgrass Biology, Genetics, and Breeding. p. 302-330. John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken, NJ.

McCarty, L.B. and Miller, G. (2002). Managing Bermudagrass Turf: Selection, Construction, Cultural Practices, and Pest Management Strategies. Sleeping Bear Press, Chelsea, MI.

Are you looking for a hybrid bermudagrass or fine fescue suitable for a golf, bowls or croquet green; or a medium-textured turfgrass that you can play amateur or professional sport on? There are many turfgrass to choose from that will best suit your environment, usage and budget. Choosing the right one is essential to make you facility playable and most importantly safe for its users.

While most turfgrasses will grow satisfactorily across a range of maintenance levels, there is an optimum level of management needed to maintain good turf quality for each grass. Maintenance levels are closely related to cost and time, with high maintenance turf costing the most and taking the most time to maintain. For example, major sports stadiums in northern states grow ryegrass in winter, whereas southern states predominantly grow ryegrass year-round. The cost to maintain a ryegrass field, including mowing, fertilising and watering alone, is significant in comparison to other turf species. You need to decide, not just how you want your field(s) to look but honestly how practical is will be to maintain them on a budget.

Because of differences in climatic and soil conditions, certain grasses will grow better in some locations than in others. While this may at first be confusing, it also means that there is usually a number of well-adapted grasses from which to choose from a professional turf producer in your area.

Except for high altitude areas, only warm-season (C4) grasses (those adapted to subtropical and tropical conditions) are suitable for year-round growth in subtropical and tropical environments. Cool-season (C3) grasses (ryegrass, fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, etc.) are better suited for temperate regions, yet some C4 grasses are also well adapted. Green couch varieties have in recent years following the millennium drought been chosen because of their drought tolerance compared with the majority of the C3 grasses.

Unfortunately sports turf and shade do not mix. Turfgrasses vary greatly in their shade tolerance of shade. Less shade tolerant turfgrasses produce fewer shoots giving it a more open appearance; the remaining shoots become etiolated (elongated) with leaves angled upwards, which further reduces light interception; and turf recovery within these areas is nearly non-existent.

The amount of sunlight varies through the day, from season to season, and from place to place. Approximately 70% of total daily radiation is received between 9:00 a.m. and 3:00 p.m. in summer, or between about 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. in winter, so these are the crucial periods to observe whether your area to be turfed is sunny or shaded. A sunny winter day receives only about 60% of the radiation of a sunny summer day, but seasonal differences in cloudiness compensate partially for this because cloud reduces light levels by 40% or more.

"Traffic stress is a general term that covers two components: soil compaction and wear (Beard, 1973). While soil compaction and wear may occur simultaneously on the same turf site, one is usually the dominant stress on the turfgrass plants (Carrow and Petrovic, 1992). Wear injury involves direct damage to shoot tissues (e.g. by mechanical pressure, abrasion, scuffing, tearing, or divoting) and dominates the effects of traffic stress on high-sand root zones (e.g. elite sports fields) and when moisture becomes limiting on heavy soils, while soil compaction dominates on fine-textured soils at high moisture contents, particularly at or above field capacity" (Roche, 2009).

Numerous studies have been undertaken on the wear tolerance and recovery of turfgrasses suitable for sportsfields. One of these articles that present their findings on a range of green and hybrid green couch grasses can be seen below.

Wear Tolerance and Community Sportsfields (1.5 MB)

Wear tolerance and recovery capabilities of a turfgrass are important, yet so too are the mowing requirements. The morphological-agronomic diversity of C4 grasses is vast, but also within a species of turf significant variation exists, particularly between old and new varieties (Roche, 2012). Regular mowing improves turf quality; nevertheless it can be a financial burden on clubs resources and be very time consuming for turf managers during an active growing season. It's important to choose a suitable turfgrass to meet your usage needs and available resources.

Content included on this page has been modified; original content was published in Lawns and Lawn Care, a homeowner's guide (no date) and on the web by the former Dept of Primary Industries and Fisheries. Permission for use has been granted by the now Dept of Agriculture and Fisheries.

Roche, M.B., Loch, D.S., Penberthy, J.D.L., Durant, C.R. & Troughton, A.D. (2009) Factors Contributing to Wear Tolerance of Bermudagrass [Cynodon dactylon (L.) Pers., C. dactylon x transvaalensis Burtt-Davey] on a Sand-Based Profile under Simulated Sportsfield Conditions. International Turfgrass Society Research Journal, Vol. 11: 449-459.

Roche, M.B., Penberthy, J.D. and O'Brien, L. (2012). TU08018: Traffic Tolerance of Warm-Season Turf Grasses under Community Sports Field Conditions. Final Project Report for Horticulture Australia Ltd (HAL).